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How do Tides Work?
Have you ever stopped to think why it is that
the tide rushes up and down the beach twice a day causing
inconvenience to all concerned? And it's not as if the tide comes
in and goes out at set times of the day. It changes daily. In a
predictable way, it is true, which is fortunate for those who work
out our Tide Tables. The tide doesn't even rise and fall to set
levels each day. It may expose a sand bank at low tide one week
which couldn't be seen at low tide the week before.
The prediction of tides is vitally important
for those working on the sea, fishermen, sea transport, ferry
operators and so on. They need to know when there is maximum water
available to access berths, cross the harbour, or to cast nets. And
of course for those on holiday the tides make a great difference on
how much beach is available on a given day, whether it is safe to
go swimming and, for the more experienced, what type of wave will
be best for watersport at a certain stage of the tide.
Tides are caused by the gravitational force of
the moon and sun. The sea, being liquid, is pulled out towards the
sun or the moon. The actual bulge of water occurs on the side of
the planet exposed to the gravitational force, and on the opposite
side of the planet. The earth spins around relative to the moon in
24 hours and 50 minutes, the lunar day. Consequently to fit in our
24 hour (solar) day, the tide time alters by 50 minutes per day at
any given spot - or thereabouts, depending on the different coastal
currents in operation. So if high tide at Eastoke one Wednesday is
at 11 a.m., on the Thursday it will be at round about 11.50
a.m.
The reason we have a difference in the height
of the tides, ranging from a series of relatively limited
differences in tidal range between low and high water (known as
neap tides), and very much greater differences, known as spring
tides, is dependant upon the alignment of the sun and moon. When
the sun and moon are directly in line with the earth, the
combination of their gravitational pull creates a bigger bulge
resulting in higher high and low tides. When the moon is in its
first and last quarter, the sun and moon are pulling in different
directions and the bulge and hence tidal range is less. There is
therefore a 28 day cycle of spring and neap tides which are most
pronounced at the equinoxes in March and September.
Because of this rhythmic cycle it is possible
to predict with accuracy the times and heights of tides many years
in advance. However there will always be local conditions, mainly
due to the weather, which will change the predicted time and
height. When the height of the tide is greater than predicted this
is known as a 'surge' and it is these 'surges' which may cause
flooding problems if they coincide with gales or heavy rain.